sng video

sveiki,

ieskojau sng video( bet kad butu is online ir mazesniu buy in <10$), jei kas turit butu malonu jei pasidalintumet

p.s cia biskine i tema, kiek losiu sng (~500 trn ivairiu ir multi ir single table), pakilus blindam ~200/400+ prasideda all in saudymas, kaip isvengti to "flip the coin"?

Būti dažniau pusheriu ir palikti spręsti opui dėl flipo..

neisvengsi tu all-inu , reikia ieskoti tinkamu spotu, kad galetum nustealint blindus

kai prasideda "the coine flip" tada tu pradedi naudot ICM.

o video niex neturit?

http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/36/stt-strategy/official-stt-video-thread-155618-post3180776/#post3180776

Pirmame poste tikrai gero zaidejo video. Kaip su toliau esanciais video nezinau.

Prie to pacio apie SNG, gal kuris turite SILVER statusa PokerStratgy saite? Ir galit nucopint siuos du tekstus :

# How to Play Double or Nothing Tournaments NEW!

# Independent Chip Model (ICM)

Buciau labai dekingas

How to Play Double or Nothing Tournaments

Introduction

In this article

Advantages and disadvantages of DoNs

The phases of a DoN

How to win DoNs

Unlike classic Sit and Go (SnG) and multi-table tournaments, DoNs do not have a scaled prize structure. You either get two buy-ins back, or nothing at all. They are kind of like qualifier tournaments, and are often played out in similar fashion. You don't have to be among the top three to be in the money; 5th place is as good as 1st in a 10 player DoN.

Survival is much more important than in a normal SnG. Having a big stack is certainly advantageous, but there's no extra payout for taking 1st place. All these factors make playing in DoNs easier on the one hand, on the other hand you will have to adjust your basic game plan to find success.

This article will shed light on the advantages and disadvantages of DoNs. You will also be given a strategy to play them profitably. You will learn about the phases of a DoN and the differences between DoNs and SnGs.

Before you dive into this article you should have a basic understanding of SnGs and how you play in the different phases of a tournament. You should also be familiar with the Independent Chip Model (ICM).

We also recommend that you reread the articles in the Beginner's Section and the Bronze Section. You should also have read the Silver article on the ICM.

Note: This article will deal solely with full-ring DoNs.

Advantages and disadvantages on DoNs

Like all variations of poker, DoNs have their own characteristics. The next section will discuss the advantages and disadvantages in DoNs and will help you decide whether you are better off playing DoNs or regular SnGs.

The advantages

You're in the money once you make 5th place, whereas you have to reach at least 3rd to to get paid in a SnG.

Simple, solid ABC poker is good enough for a payout. Most of your opponents will play too many hands and waste their chips. You sit tight and wait for good starting hands while your opponents knock each other out of the tournament.

DoNs can be a good way to build up your bankroll when you are new to poker. You will find a lot of poor players and can practice playing standard poker until you have enough money for other variations and higher limits.

DoNs are also great for beginners and multi-tablers. PokerStrategy teaches you to play tight, which keeps you from having to make many difficult decisions. Take things slow and observe your opponents when you first start playing poker. You will gain experience and confidence and can start playing several tournaments simultaneously.

The disadvantages

Rake can mean losing money in the long run, even when you break even in play.

Good players loose part of their edge, since they can't earn more money by taking 1st. Good SnG players should stick to regular SnGs.

Bankroll management

You may think you will have no problem winning DoNs, but don't forget where it all starts: Bankroll management. Your goal is to make your way up the limits without letting a downswing break your back.

As with regular SnGs, you should have at least 50 buy-ins in your bankroll to play a certain limit; this will help you survive the downswings. Be aware that you will need more time to make up your losses, as you can only double your buy-in.

The following chart shows you how to manage your bankroll when playing DoNs:

DoN Bankrollmanagement

DoN Bankroll Move up Move down

$1 $50 $100 -

$2 $100 $250 $50

$5 $250 $500 $100

$10 $500 $1000 $250

Be aware that not every poker platform offers DoNs with these limits and you may not be able to follow this plan exactly. Depending on where you play, you may have to play $1 DoNs until you can afford $5 buy-ins, as 2$ tournaments are not offered.

Rake also plays a bigger role. As a beginner, you should look for a platform with very low rake.

Note:

Never play a limit if you do not have at least 50 buy-ins for that limit in your bankroll

Look for a platform with low rake if you are new to poker

You can learn more about bankroll management and what limits you can afford to play in this article: How to Play in a Tournament

Strategy in DoNs

You now know what a DoN is and the advantages and disadvantages involved. This section will introduce you to a strategy that will help you play these tournaments successfully. Keep in mind that this strategy alone won't turn you into a professional poker player. You have to work hard and constantly develop yourself as a player. Read the other strategy articles and take advantage of sample hand evaluation forums; they will help you on your way.

There are two keys to success in DoNs: playing tight and having information on your opponents. Observe your opponents, especially in the early phases of the tournament. Write down notes, they can help you make decisions later. You will also notice which opponents are regular players; be more cautious when playing against them.

Pay attention to the number of hands your opponents play. Loose players don't tend to perform well in DoNs. Tight opponents know what they are doing and have a strategy (often a successful one). If a tight player suddenly starts playing aggressively, you should get out of the way. He probably has a good hand.

Note: Observe your opponents and keep notes on them. This will help you make decisions later in the game.

As in every tournament, your play depends on the size of your stack. Your stack will be very large in relation to the blinds at the beginning of the tournament, but this (and your play) will change every time the blinds increase. You need a strategy for the early, middle and late phases of the tournament.

Your strategy in the early phase (> 24 BB)

The early phase of a DoN is very similar to the early phase of a SnG. You play very tight from early position and loosen up a little in later positions.

You fold everything except QQ+ and AK from early position. Raise if you do pick up one of these hands. You can play JJ, depending on how aggressive the opponents behind you are, but don't get into the habit of limping.

You can add TT and JJ to your range in middle position. Pocket pairs can win big pots when they hit the flop, which makes limping with a middle pocket pair possible - just don't start doing it every time you catch one. Don't play small pocket pairs for set value unless you are in MP3 or later.

As we mentioned, it's important to observe your opponents and take notes on them. You can fold small pocket pairs without second thought when you have an aggressive opponent behind you.

You can add AQ, AJ and KQ to your range once you reach late position, but you will have to fold these hands to a raise. Risking a few chips on a raise is one thing, losing a lot calling a reraise is another.

You should avoid calling raises in general. Fold weak hands and raise with strong hands.

Always be aware of your goal: You don't just want to survive the early phase, you want to take enough chips into the middle phase to play your game comfortably. Just like any other SnG, a DoN doesn't really get interesting until you reach the last phase, and that is exactly where you want end up.

Note:

Tight is right

The real game starts in the late phase

Your strategy in the middle phase (14 – 24 BB)

The middle phase in a DoN is similar to the middle phase in a SnG. The important thing is making it through this phase. You have to adjust your strategy, since every decision now costs more in chips. You should play much tigher in general and should no longer limp with small pocket pairs.

Your game stays the same when you are in early position; you raise first in with AA, KK, QQ and AK. Limping is a poor idea in general; if you are going to play JJ, raise.

Raise first in with TT+, AK and AQ from middle position; once again, avoid limping.

Don't change your game up too much in late/blind positions. You can try to steal with a small pocket pair if everyone folds in front of you and the opponents behind you are not too aggressive. If, however, you get raised, you will have to lay down your hand.

It's important to adapt to your opponents. Avoid getting involved in pots with deep stacks; attack the pot when playing against short and middle stacks.

Once the blinds reach substantial size, stealing will become a more important part of the game (and your game, too). You can try stealing a tight opponent's blind; but remember, steals can only be successful against opponents who can lay down a hand. Expect short stacks to defend their blinds with a wide range of hands.

Don't call raises. Ask yourself if your hand is good enough for a reraise or even an all-in. If not, it probably isn't strong enough to call with, either.

Note:

Play tighter in the middle phase

Steal tight opponents' blinds

Calling is usually a mistake

Avoid getting involved in pots with deep stacks

Your strategy in the late phase (< 14 BB)

This is where SnGs and DoNs differ most. Now you are either in the money and double your buy-in, or you get nothing. There is no point in risking your stack now for a larger share of the pot later on.

The Independent Chip Model (ICM) shows us why you can risk your stack for a larger share of a SnG prize pool, whereas there is little sense in doing so in a DoN.

You can win up to 50% of the prize pool in a 10 handed SnG, but only if you take 1st. Since, however, you can only win 20% of the prize pool in a DoN, there is little to be won by pushing.

Example: You are on the bubble in a $5 DoN. Each of the 6 remaining players has a 2500 chip stack and thereby owns 16.66% of the prize pool. Winning an all-in only increases your share of the prize pool to 20%.

With a $50 prize pool each 2500 chip stack is worth app. $8.33. Going all-in means risking $8.33 for the chance to win an additional $1.67.

The following chart illustrates this more clearly:

$EV in a $5 DoN

Before push After push Profit

Chips 2500 5000 2500

Value of chips $8.33 $10 $1.67

Share (%) of the prize pool 16.67 20 3.33

Let's look at a similar situation in a SnG with a $5 buy-in and 50/30/20 prize pool. 4 players, each with 3750 chips, are on the bubble. At this point, each player has a 25% share of the pot. Winning an all-in increases your share of the prize pool to 38.3%.

You risk $12.50 for the chance to win an additional $6.35. The risk/benefit ratio is considerably better. If you then go on to win, you get a full 50% of the prize pool.

The following chart illustrates this more clearly:

$EV in a $5 SnG

Before push After push Profit

Chips 3750 7500 3750

Value of chips $12.5 $19.15 $6.65

Share (%) of the prize pool 25 38.3 13.3

As you can see, surviving the bubble is worth more in a SnG than a DoN. Chips are also worth more in $. Your share of the prize pool can continue to increase (up to 50%) in a SnG, but is limited to max. 20% in a DoN.

You can therefore take more risks and play with a wider hand range in a SnG than in a DoN. Understanding this will give you a distinct advantage against "normal" players and is the key to success in DoNs.

Note:

Doubling up does not significantly increase your share of the prize pool in a DoN. Avoid confrontations - they are not worth the risk.

Your starting hand range depends on your opponents and the size of their stacks. You can use the Push or Fold Chart as a guideline.

Four Standard Charts for the Push or Fold Phase

Be tighter when pushing and only call an all-in with a monster hand. Whether or not you can push depends on your position and the opponents still in the hand. You can push with a looser range against very tight opponents, but don't over do it; remember, winning an all-in barely increases your share of the prize pool.

Folding is usually the best move against very aggressive opponents. Let aggressive opponents knock each other out until you are in the money. Just be careful not to be too passive, or the blinds will eat away at your stack and force you to go all-in with a less than ideal hand. You also generate less fold equity when you push with a small stack.

Blind steals should be your standard move for surviving the bubble. You should have taken plenty of notes by now and know how your opponents are playing.

You steal from opponents who have been playing tight, solid poker. They will usually fold and rarely call an all-in. Don't push against loose (or poor) players unless you have a really good hand, as they are more likely to call. There's no need to risk elimination this close to the money; surviving is much more important than increasing the size of your stack.

You should rarely call an opponent's all-in. Doing so would be taking unnecessary risks. Loose opponents will push with a wide range, tight opponents with a small range. Calling an all-in from either one is dangerous: you will usually be behind against a tight opponent, and never know what you might be running into against a loose opponent. You're better off doing the pushing yourself and avoiding the trouble of making a difficult call.

Of course, there are situations in which you call an all-in, with AA or KK it should be automatic. Other hands can also be profitable when you have a very large or a very small stack. You don't have to risk much to call with a large stack, and doubling up when you are short stacked can mean making it to the money.

You will usually end up in the money if you can stick to these rules in the late phase of the tournament.

Note:

Take notes on your opponents and use them

Fold more when your opponents are aggressive

Only call an all-in with good reason

Conclusion

You have now learned how to play a DoN and seen the differences between DoNs and regular SnGs. You have also learned when you can push in a DoN.

Remember that this article only gave you a basic strategy to follow. There is a lot more work to be done.

Independent Chip Model (ICM)

1. Introduction

In this article

What is the ICM

How do you use the ICM

ICM programs and limitations

Imagine that you're on the bubble in the BB at a standard PartyPoker Sit and Go tournament. Blinds are 300/600.

CO 10000

BU 2000

SB 2000

BB 6000 (Hero)

The chipleader is banking on extreme aggression and is dominating the table with reckless all-in pushes. The CO pushes all-in, BU and SB fold. You estimate the handrange of the CO around 90% and have AK yourself.

Is now a dream situation for taking over the chip lead or should we fold our AKs with a heavy heart because of the risk of not getting ITM? What would you do? If it's a simple call for you, which other hands would you call and against which handrange would you fold AKs? If you tend toward the fold, how good must your hand be to call and how loose must the CO be so that you would call with AKs?

The ability to answer such questions correctly is the single most valuable skill for successful SnG play. You can be good in the early phases - but if you make the wrong decision in the endgame, you'll seldom win. And the honing of this skill which is the aim of this article.

1.1 Basics:

This is an advanced article on playing Sit and Go's in PartyPoker format at relatively high blinds (above 100/200). It builds on the basic knowledge from the SnG Beginner's guide and assumes that you're familiar with terms like bubble, fold equity, etc.

1.2 EV and $EV:

EV: (expected value) also called chip EV, is the number of chips you can expect to end up with, on average after a specific action. An action is +EV if it raises the EV.

$EV: this is the money value of the EV. An action is +$EV whenever it raises the $EV.

Note: since the EV and $EV are not linearly related (doubling the EV does not necessily double the $EV), there are actions which can be +EV but -$EV. These must be avoided since our aim is to maximize the $EV.

Note: since we are only interested in $EV in tournaments, this is usually the one we mean when we speak of EV. In this article, however, we will differentiate between EV and $EV.

2. What is ICM

ICM stands for independant chip model and describes a model for giving monetary values to chip stacks during tournaments, that is, to calculate the $EV from the EV. The money value of your own stack ($EV) is dependent on the stack ratios of the other players.

How is the $EV calculated under the ICM?

To calculate the $EV of stacks, 3 simplifying assumptions are made:

All players are equal in skill

The current position is irrelevant

The table image of the player is irrelevant

Now, for each player, the probability can be calculated of his taking the first, second, and third places.

This is modeled as a lottery where each chip is a ticket. All tickets are put in a drum and we draw for first place. So with a quarter of all chips, you will be first 25% of the time. After this draw, all of the tickets belonging to the winner are removed and we draw for second place. This is repeated for third place. If this procedure is repeated many times, we can get the probability of each player obtaining a particular place by keeping track of how many times they win it. Once we have these, it's easy to calculate how much each player will win on average by using the payoff structure.

So if Klaus has 3000 chips in a 10+1$ SnG and takes places 1/2/3 with probabilities 15/17/20%, then his payoff is

$EV = 0.15*$50 + 0.17*$30 + 0.20*$20 = $16.6

You can see that the size of the stack doesn't appear in this calculation explicitly. His and the other stack sizes get sucked into the placement probabilities, and are, therefore, included implicitly.

Mathematically, there is a closed-form solution for obtaining the probabilities of placement using conditional probabilities. But I think this metaphor is sufficient for our explanation.

2.1 Using the ICM

Since we can now calculate our $EV from the stacks, we can now decide which action has the greater $EV given a push-or-fold or call-or-fold decision. We then make this decision with the knowledge that it is correct.

I'll now explain the calculation of the $EV with a push or fold example:

$10+$1 PartyPoker SnG, Blinds 300/600

CO 8000

BU 2000

SB 6000

BB 4000 (Hero)

CO folds, BU folds, SB pushs All-In 6000, Hero AT ??

We believe that the SB will often put us under pressure, pushing his hand 85% of the time. It would be +EV to call against this handrange with ATo. But is it also +$EV?

There are 3 scenarios for us:

Fold

Call & Win

Call & Lose

We use an ICM calculator to get the $EV for all 3:

$EV(Fold): 21.50$ with 3400 Chips

$EV(Call&Win): 34.40$ with 8000 Chips

$EV(Call&Lose): 0$ with 0 Chips

To get $EV(Call), we must weight the last two cases with the probability of winning: (we will win 58% of the time against his range)

$EV(Call) = 0.58*$EV(Call&Win)+0.42*$EV(Call&Lose) = 0.58*$34.4 = ~$20

Now we compare $EV(fold) with $EV(Call) and see that it would be better to fold here, even if we will have fewer chips on average. The reason is that we'll bust on the bubble 42% of the time with a call even though there's another short stack at the table. He would profit greatly from our call. For the SB, a call from us would be -$EV (and also -EV). In this example, a fold would even be correct if the SB pushed with any two cards.

Let's look at the same example from the SB's side, supposing we hold 23o.

Here there are two alternatives and 4 scenarios:

Fold (F)

Push & Fold (P,F)

Push & Call & Win (P,C,W)

Push & Call & Lose (P,C,L)

The decisive factor is how we estimate the calling range of the BB. Harry, a TAG who uses the ICM, will clearly fold ATo and has a call range of around 7% (88+, AQ+, AJs).

Hermine, a normal low-limit player that we all know and love, has a call range of perhaps 26% (22+,A2+,KT+,K7s+,QTs+,JTs+).

$EV(F) = $28.7

$EV(P,F) = $31

$EV(P,C,W) = $38.9

$EV(P,C,L) = $15.6

Our $EV(Push) is calculated by weighting these values according to their probabilities.

We will win 28.4% of the time against Hermine.

Our $EV(Push) = 0.74*$EV(P,F) + 0.26*[$EV(P,C,W)*0.284+$EV(P,C,L)*0.716] = 0.74*$31 + 0.26*($11+$11) = ~$23+$5.7 = $28.7

Here we have an interesting case where the $EV is the same for push and fold. For this reason, we should fold since we are hopefully better than our opponent and can then use our edge in later situations instead of entering a break even gamble here.

Without showing the calculations, against Harry our $EV(Push) = $30.4, that is, a clear push. We only win 23.3% of the time against his range, but we'll get the blinds without a fight in 93% of cases. You can see that estimating the opponent's handrange is important, as is which player is holding the gun to the other's head. This is especially true of good players.

If that was too much math for you, just know that there are programs to do it for you. The decisive skill remains the estimation of the opposition's push or calling range.

2.2 ICM Programs

The two most widespread ICM analysis programs are SNG Wizard and SNG Power Tools. Both of them are expensive at $99 and $79 respectively and have similar functions whose description is beyond the scope of this article. I would recommend trying the 30 day test version of SNG Wizard. SNG Wizard also includes the so-called bubble trainer. This feature generates random situations given parameters like position, stack size, etc. and lets you decide which action to take. Afterward, you can evaluate your decision. This is a good way to automate ICM decisions and to find errors in your own estimation.

2.3 The ICM Strategy

The obvious strategy resulting from the ICM is simply to always choose the decision with the highest $EV. This is called playing "according to the ICM" and is particularly important with 3 to 6 players. To do this you must be able to estimate the handranges of the opposition and calculate the $EV. With time, you'll do this automatically. You should analyze difficult decisions with the tools above and post them in the forums for discussion. The strategy basically results in many first-in pushes to put the opposition under pressure, but seldom calling an all-in yourself. Furthermore, your game is heavily dependent on stack size. The goal is to duck out of confrontations with big stacks and putting maximum pressure on the smaller but not destitute stacks. As a middle stack on the bubble with short stacks around, you take fewer risks while you play more aggressively when stacks are the same. As a big stack you play very aggressively, the same as for a single short stack.

2.4 Limitations of the ICM

The publishers of ICM software and many players who play strictly according to the $EV as calculated by the ICM will tell you that it is a perfect and indeed the only correct mode of play. This is not so. As we said in the beginning, the ICM neglects player skill, table image, and position. Even if player skill is included in the ICM program with an edge input, it still does not capture all the various skills of the opposition. Suppose a decision raises the chance that I will go heads up against a complete fish. This could then be a deciding factor. Or if I'm sitting UTG with 6 players then my 5 BB stack is clearly worth less than it would be on the button. The optimal mode of play is therefore different from the ICM when the decision is very hard. However, strict ICM strategy is very close to the optimal mode and is therefore a winning strategy on almost all limits. Keep in mind, however, that there is more than just the ICM. This becomes important on particularly high buy-ins and will be addressed in further articles. Furthermore, very small stacks (less than 1BB) and very high blinds can cause errors in the ICM calculations. In these cases, trust your own intuition rather than the calculated value.

3. Summary

Some will be disappointed that this article did not provide the philosopher's stone for making a winning player on all SNG limits with the wave of a hand. It is much more about building a foundation for analyzing your endgame play in SNG's and also MTT's and for making rational decisions in those contexts. It is not about how to act in special situations. Such examples are addressed in following articles and in the example hand forums.

A knowledge of the ICM is without question a prerequisite for a successful SNG player. It is a good model for describing the $EV in a tournament and for drawing conclusions from it. It is, however, only a model and both it and the decisions based upon it are fallible.

An important axiom follows from the limitations mentioned above, with which I will end the article:

Given calculations by the ICM, make all +$EV pushes and make no -$EV calls. However, sometimes you should make a -$EV push or leave a +$EV call.

Viskas OK, Ray, tik, manau, tokia tema nusipelno atskiro threado, o ne prapulti kažkur tarp "sng video" puslapių

Kas nores tas gali perskaityt (bent jau uzklauses sios info).

Beje, veliau siuos ilgus copy-paste postus galima bus istrint...

P.S. Gobbitas, o tu personal zinutes skaitai? Prirasiau tau kruva, o atsakymo jokio...

Dekui Ray